The Heights of Ho Chi Minh City

In order to truly love a city, you need to see it from different angles so that you can appreciate each layer. My favorite way to see a city is from above. There is nothing quite like flying into a city and seeing its veins. Height provides a sense of nostalgia for a city but it also provides an escape from the chaos that lies beneath.

In New York, I love seeing the city from above. Weather permitting, rooftop bars are all the rage. They allow you to be apart of the hustle from afar. You can still hear the sirens, see the yellow cabs speeding by and gaze at the skyscrapers surrounding you. But your world looks smaller. You aren’t directly dodging crowds (as much), you can’t hear as many side conversations and you are less bothered by the weekday pressures. You begin to romanticize about a city when you look down on it from above.

In the short time that I’ve been in Ho Chi Minh City, I’ve spent a lot of time experiencing the city from above. It’s a nice escape from the motorbike madness that resides below. The new teachers and I that are staying at Miss Loi’s have been frequenting the roof terrace. It’s the perfect way to wind down after days of planning lessons, exploring the city or just for adding an extra nightcap to our dinners/drinking sessions on Bui Vien. The rooftop terrace is best in the morning or at night when the weather is cooler. Typically at night we all stock up on cheap beer and enjoy each other’s company.

Last week, we convened for happy hour at the Sheraton hotel in District 1. The hotel has a rooftop dining area called the Level 23 Signature Restaurant that offers an incredible view of the city. The happy hour deal is buy one cocktail, get one free. I ordered a Caiprinha, which was quite refreshing followed by a Black Russian. It was 195,000 Dong for the two of them. In terms of Saigon it’s very expensive, but when you translate it to U.S. dollars, it’s quite cheap ($10).

At a slightly lower altitude, Cindy and I found the most adorable café across from the Ben Thanh Market called Coffee Anh. We spotted the sign when were across the street from the café (on Le Thanh Ton Street—194) and decided to check it out. At first attempt, we walked right passed it because the doorway is small and hidden. Once we realized, we walked back and a woman working for the café escorted us upstairs.

When we reached the top of the stairs, I was pleasantly surprised about how charming the place was. It was a long, narrow, French-inspired restaurant with a balcony that had a bar table looking over Ben Thanh market with four stools. We took two bar stools next to an Eastern European couple entertaining white wine and some appetizers. We opted for the coffee milkshakes. Cindy ordered vanilla and I ordered chocolate so that we could both taste and compare. They were served on adorable pink-knitted coasters and tasted heavenly. 

An added bonus to this place was how cheap it was. Throughout Ho Chi Minh City, the price for a black coffee—which here implies a single espresso shot, ranges from 18.00-55.00 VND. Therefore, one would expect a milkshake to be at least 100.00 VND. But that wasn’t the case! These little treats were only 55.00 VND a pop and they came along with a lovely view of (and escape from) the Ben Thahn market chaos on top of an adorable and feminine atmosphere. I would highly recommend it to anyone looking to relax over a snack after being constantly hassled at the market.